Everything about The Stora Alvaret totally explained
The
Stora Alvaret is a
limestone barren plain on the island of
Öland,
Sweden. Because of the thin soil mantle and high
pH levels, a great assortment of vegetation is found including numerous
rare species. Stora Alvaret has been designated as a
World Heritage Site by
UNESCO due to its extraordinary
biodiversity and prehistory. The area of this formation exceeds 260 km², making it the largest such expanse in
Europe and comprising over one fourth of the land area of the island. Stora Alvaret isn't devoid of trees, contrary to a common misconception; in fact, it holds a variety of sparse stunted trees akin to a
pygmy forest. The Stora Alvaret, sometimes called the
Great Alvar, is a
dagger shaped expanse almost 40 kilometers long and about 10 kilometers at the widest .
Geological origins
The limestone plain was created by
glacial action from earlier ice age advances. The limestone formation itself was created about 500 million years ago in more southerly seas. Gradually hardening into limestone and drifting northward, the limestone of the Stora Alvaret contains a rich fossil record of some of the marine creatures who contributed to it. For example,
orthoceratites are found in some of the present day structures on the island.
Only as recently as 11,000 years ago did the first portions of the island of Öland emerge from the
Baltic Sea, after the overpressure of the last glaciers was relieved by melting. Over the next several thousand years, more ice melted and the first wave of large
mammals including
humans migrated across the
ice bridge from the mainland. Finally a thin
soil mantle (only two centimeters at the deepest) was formed by plant colonisation of the bare
limestone and some wind driven deposition, to create the
alvar formation of the present. In many places the limestone has no soil whatsoever upon it.
Prehistoric man
The best known early paleolithic settlement occurs at
Alby, situated on the east coast of the island, where excavations have revealed vestiges of wooden huts around a prehistoric
lagoon. Artefacts retrieved include evidence of
bear,
marten,
seal and
porpoise, but also reveal hunting and gathering technologies through discovery of
bone spears,
elk antler harpoons and
flint.
Evidence of later
ringforts abounds including the most well known site at
Eketorp. In the
Bronze Age and early part of the
Iron Age, extreme pressure was exerted on the limited tree species growing on the Stora Alvaret and its margins. Jannson suggests that this
disappearance of trees caused a mysterious evaporation of humans about 500 AD which is documented at Eketorp and other sites. It is thought provoking to imagine that the
expanded human population may have exceeded its
carrying capacity of this place by about 500 AD. Later, about 800 to 1000 AD various
Viking settlements appeared on the fringe of the Stora Alvaret.
Ecology
The first documented scientific study of the
biota of the Stora Alvaret occurred in the year 1741 with the visit of
Linnaeus. He wrote of this unusual ecosystem: "It is noteworthy how some plants are able to thrive on the driest and most barren places of the alvar". Some
relict species from the glacial age are among the
flora palette of the Stora Alvaret. A wide variety of
wildflowers and other plants are found on the limestone pavement ecosystem. Some of the species found include
stonecrop,
dropwort,
Artemisia oelandica (
endemic to Öland),
Shrubby Cinquefoil,
Common spotted orchid and kidney
vetch. Most of these wildflowers bloom from May to July.
Numerous grasses are found on this alvar including
Meadow Oat-grass and
Sheep's Fescue; as would be expected from the occurrence of orchids, many
fungi grow on the Stora Alvaret such as
Hygrocybe persistens and
Lepiota alba. Although the alvar here's known for its severely dry conditions, there are some seasonal wetlands and
vernal pools, notably the vestigial
lagoon area northwest of the
village of Alby.
Practical logistics
The Stora Alvaret is bounded on the east, west and south by the
perimeter public two-lane
highway which circumnavigates the entire island. At several latitudes there are less improved roadways that run east-west and intrude directly through the Stora Alvaret. Small villages such as Stora Vickleby, Gettlinge, Grönhögen, Hulterstad, Alby, Triberga and Vället lie at the fringe of the Stora Alvaret along the perimeter highway. There are fewer and smaller villages within the alvar expanse itself: Mockelmossen, Solberga and Flisas, for example. Some of the old villages are totally deserted such as Dröstorp. At the extreme south end of the Stora Alvaret lies
Ottenby, a historic royal game farm and now a
nature reserve.
References
Further Information
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